Cristalino and the journey back (4)

Cristalino and the journey back (4)

When:  November 2019                Weather: Hot 30C

Leica M10P 35mm Summilux and 15mm Voigtlander.  Nikon P900

Our three night stay in Cristalino Lodge came to an end all too soon but we had one last morning…so we used it to pay one more visit to the 50m observation tower followed by an exploration of the nearby areas to look for the snowy browed manakin and trumpeter….before our boat trip back to civilisation and Alta Floresta….

Heading up to the observation tower again at 5am to catch the sunrise…


Daybreak over the canopy on our last morning


the morning colours tried to rival the setting sun from the previous evening…


and the mist settled over the forest…such a serene scene


a pair of macaws flew above the canopy

paradise tanager (2)

first bird of the morning….paradise tanager

paradise tanager

paradise tanager

swallow winged puffbird (5)

In the distance a pair of swallow winged puffbirds


orange cheeked parrot

One of the more spectacular parrots perched on a distant tree…the orange cheeked parrot

orange cheeked parrot (2)

orange cheeked parrot


mid morning …

red necked aracari

and a new toucan appeared…the red necked toucan

red necked aracari (2)

beautiful red necked toucan


far away two bright blue birds….



Spangled Cotingas

black girdled barbet

and then in the nearby trees, a beautiful black girdled barbet

black girdled barbet (2)

Male black girdled barbet

female black girdled barbet

the less spectacular but no less attractive female black girdled barbet


Bare necked fruitcrow


plain breasted ground dove

ground dove


from a long way off Jess heard this raptor calling


A white browed hawk


dusky chested flycatcher


a spider monkey looked up at us


whilst mum made a bridge with her body for junior to cross the gap between trees


so we headed down as the sun came up….Jess wanted to look for a trumpeter, antpitta and the elusive snow capped manikin….


a skulking shadow in the undergrowth heralded the trumpeter!

trumpeter (8)

several of them appeared and strutted down the path

trumpeter (7)

a brown winged trumpeter

trumpeter (3)

and as they walkd, one of them displayed…

trumpeter (2)

the tail feathers fanned out in a spectacular display….picture by Nik


spotted antpitta (2)

we then sought the antpitta and caught a glimpse of a large eye…

spotted antpitta (3)

It was indeed an Alta Floresta Antpitta..very very shy and skittish

spotted antpitta

Alta Floresta Antpitta

spotted antpitta (4)


Even though it was nigh our departure time, we went seeking the snow capped manikin….alas it was so skittish that although we found it all we got was a glimpse but no photographic record….

So back to the lodge to pack and get ready to leave…we still had time to see..

madeira parakeet

Madeira parakeets


Tapajos hermit was just outside our lodge


Departing the lodge on the boat, Jess and Christian piloted us one last time down the Rio Cristalino and Rio Teles Pires……here’s a tip…bring your camera on the boat….



another spider monkey performed for us


then Jess yelled Tapir! and there she was at the water’s edge


but she also had her calf with her!


A so-called watermelon baby tapir


This final sighting on the banks was the icing on the cake for us as we departed…

As we departed the river by car, there were several other sightings but unfortunately our driver this time was not so minded to stop for us to shoot….and just when we thought we were done with shooting,  we arrived at the Amazonica Floresta Hotel to settle our outstanding Cristalino Lodge bills and have lunch….this is an oldish hotel with a small garden but backed by some forest…..

lettered aracari

in the forested area, I shot this lovely lettered aracari

lettered aracari (2)

lettered aracari

blue-gray tanager

A blue gray tanager posed willingly near our dining table

blue-gray tanager (3)

Blue gray tanager which can be distinguished from the similarly coloured Sayaca tanager by the white shoulder on the wing

turquoise tanager

as if to end our amazonian adventure with a bang…this colourful bird landed right in front of us whilst we were having lunch…

turquoise tanager (3)

a spectacularly coloured Turquoise tanager

turquoise tanager (2)

Turquoise tanager bade us farewell


So our grand Pantanal/Amazon adventure ended after 6 nights with nearly 200 species sighted/photographed….truly a birdwatchers’ paradise.   It is an extremely long trek for birders from Asia; reckon on 24-30 hours getting to Sao Paulo and then another half a day’s travelling to get to the Pantanal and Amazonia.   Both were worth going to..the Pantanal for easier sightings but more basic accommodation and food…Cristalino for more scenic surroundings, better food and arguably more spectacular bird sightings.  I’d wait for Cristalino Lodge to install air conditioning before going…it was otherwise just the perfect location.    Highly recommended!